The framing nailer is dialed in, perfectly balanced, fully loaded and ready to drive some studs home. Then you grab what looks like the right size box of nails and within seconds the tool jams. If you haven’t experienced this before I’m sorry but you will because it’s more common then you’d think.
And what’s frustrating isn’t just making a poor choice on nail length but rather failing to grasp exactly how they measure up. Gauge, angle, and head type matter. These factor determines if it works or if your tool jams.
Failing here costs money, costs time and can cause damage to valuable equipments. What’s confusing is there are two primary gauge standards on the market. They appear identical, yet perform differently.
One is for lighter duty applications and one is for the pros on the job site. So the first step is knowing what gauge system your particular tool use. Why?
Because it will save you from wasting money purchasing fasteners (i.e., nails) that don’t fit. Here’s how we break it down so you can match the right nail to the right tool each and every time. You’ll understand why certain nails fits and others don’t.
And that converts a confusing buying decision to an easy one. We should of began by discussing gauge, which is the thickness of the nail shaft. And that’s where folks gets tripped up.
How to Match Nails to Your Framing Tool
Understanding Nail Gauge Standards
The numbering system go backwards. The smaller the number, the thicker the nail. So if you have an eleven gauge nail, that will be heavier (thicker) than a fourteen gauge nail.
That’s a little counterintuitve. But that’s because of the way they make these things. Wire has to go through dies in a wire-drawing process.
Each time it goes through there’s one less draw (making it thinner). So the fewer draws there is, the larger the number is. Generally speaking, heavy duty framing nailers takes eleven gauge nails.
Eleven gauge nails can stands up to structural load. Lighter gauge nailers tends to have fourteen gauge nails. Those are thinner so they have less shear strength.
Your manual for your tool will tell you what gauge it take. You might jam the driver blade if you use the wrong gauge. Angle is next, and I am referring to the angle at which the nail enters the tool magazine.
Choosing the Correct Nail Angle
It is not the angle that the tool sits on your hip. Usually, framing nailers has a thirty four degree nail angle. That gives them a deep magazine so they hold more nails between reloading.
A new style has appeared with a ninety degree angle. These look like regular hammers. They look like standard hammers.
The advantage here is improved visibility in close quarters. Mixing the two angles is impossible. A thirty four degree nail won’t fit into a ninety degree tool.
No way. The magazine shape don’t allow it. Check the angle spec before purchase.
That’s what defines the whole loading system. Get that one wrong and you’ve bought the wrong tool altogether. Nail head style also matter.
Selecting the Right Nail Head Style
Structural framing nails are typically round head nails. Why? Because they have a big head.
That spreads the force of the nail over a greater surface area. It also help draw plates snugly against each other. You’ll find that angled head nails is available as well.
These fit down in the wood a bit more. A few contractors like ’em because they look good. But usually speaking, round heads are stronger.
They grips the wood better and are less likely to pull out when stressed. Your tool magazine was made to feed a certain head style only. The depth of its magazine channel match the head profile.
If you use the wrong head style, it can jam up and fail to feed correctly. Nails might not move into place. Jams and misfires result.
To avoid problems, follow the instructions in your tool’s manual. It will work smoothly on the jobsite. How deep it goes depends on length.
Determining Proper Nail Length and Brand Compatibility
How long the nail goes in depends on what is being nailed. You typically want to nail into the underlying support studs at least two inches. A three inch nail is good for regular two by four wood.
That get deep enough to be strong. If you have thicker timber you may require longer nails but no longer than the longest setting on the tool. Beyond that, nails will bend or break which will damage the inside of the tool.
Look up what the max length is on yours. Usually they print it somewhere on the tool or maybe in the manual. Just stay under that and you get good holding power and protect your investment.
Additionally, size matters. Standard sizes exist for certain brands like Milwaukee and DeWalt. Others use proprietary magazine designs.
They only accepts their own nail brands. This becomes a lock-in effect. You are stuck purchasing more expensive consumables.
Make sure to check if your tool is brand specific. In the long run it will save you money. Most tools is standard and use generic nails.
They are easier to locate and less expensive. Check before you commit to a brand. It gives you options on the job site.
Nails are easy to choose, right? Wrong. There is a combination of length, angle and gauge that matters.
Gauge affects how well they drives. Angle affects how well they drive. And length affects how deep they penetrate.
Get them wrong and you have jammed nails and broken nails. Get them right and they drive clean every time. Next time check your specs.
Save yourself some frustration and time. Your next project will be smoother. Your tool will thank you.
