To prevent your water lines from freezing during the winter months, you should of them blown out using an air compressor. Blowing out water lines eliminate any residual water left inside the pipes. Additionally, it keeps the pipe from filling up with ice.
Ice expands as it freezes and that’s why copper pipes cracks. If a pipe burst, within one hour, your entire basement could be flooded and the repair costs will exceed the price of preventative maintenance. Why do most homeowners avoid their plumbing until there’s a problem?
It’s an incredibly costly error! All it takes is proper equipment, patience and understanding of pressure (and when to stop) and you’re on your way. No need to call a professional plumber; this one’s simple.
How To Winterize Water Lines With Air
Understanding Pressure Regulators and Safety Limits
First, let’s talk about the regulator. On your air compressor? Your compressor have a pressure gauge and that’s how much force it puts out.
Home compressors can go way beyond 60 psi; some as high as 150. But water pipes is rated for just around 40 to 60 psi. Any more and you risk blowing out your fittings and possibly rupturing old pipe.
To prevent this you need to put a pressure regulator on the air output from your compressor that caps the air pressure. Set this to no more than 80 psi. Better yet, set it at 50 psi.
That will be plenty of pressure to push water through and safe enough not to damage your pipes. Check it before plugging anything in and make sure the needle doesn’t jump anywhere, but rather settles into place. Air pressure varys.
Draining the Water Lines Using Gravity
So you don’t want a spurt of air, but a nice steady stream. So half the battle is preparation. How can you blow out a line filled with standing water?
The answer: First shut off main water supply valve. That prevents new water from coming into the home. Next open all the faucets throughout the house.
Start at the highest point and work toward the lowest, including any outdoor faucet and sprinklers. That gravity drain will get rid of most of the water and leave behind only those pesky pockets of moisture in the low spots and bends. That’s when the air comes into play, to displace the final few drops.
Skipping the gravity drain mean the compressor would have to do all the work (which takes longer plus puts more wear-and-tear on the machine). So let gravity do the heavy lifting and then use air for the fine cleanup.
Connecting the Air Hose and Blowing Out Pipes
Be careful how you connect the hose, you’ll want one of those quick-connect fittings that attaches your air hose to the main shut off valve.
Typically there’s an existing port nearby by the water meter where this would be attached. Ensure you have a good connection. Air leaks can be hazardous and noisy, they also can diminish your efficiency and whip your hose around.
Use a hose clamp if necessary and then you’re all set to fire up the compressor. Open the valve gently while the compressor is running and allow the air into the system at a slow pace. Monitor the pressure gauge to ensure the air isn’t going too fast (watching that gauge helps).
The goal is a gradual push but nothing like a shock wave. You should hear what sounds like rushing wind as the water gets pushed out. Continue doing this till the only thing coming out is dry air.
Blowing Out Irrigation and Sprinkler Zones
To prevent freezing in your pipes, work from bottom-up: start with the lowest faucets, then move up. That way, you’ll clear all section. Be extra careful with those irrigation lines; they are the most likely to freeze.
Turn on each zone separately, blowing out the line first, then closing that zone before proceeding to the next. Don’t attempt to blow out the entire system simultaneously (the pressure will drop). Use focused force, use manual test valves if you have a sprinkler system.
They give you direct access; easier than depending on the controller. It may take a few minutes per zone, so be patient. Make sure there’s no more moisture anywhere.
Insulating Pipes for Winter Protection
Dry lines are silent lines. After the air has hissed its way through the faucets, shut down the compressor and you’re finished! Shut off main air valve, remove the hose and insulate the pipes against the cold weather.
To do this, use foam pipe covers to insulate any exposed pipes in crawl spaces. Seal any gaps in the foundation to prevent cold air from finding the tiniest crack to get into. Blocking the cold air will keep the pipes warmer.
Do one last visual check to make sure everything is covered properly. Watch for damp spots, which would mean water got trapped somewhere. If there is dampness, then you know to go back and blow that part out again.
A few more minutes of air now can save you from a flood later. There’s no need for fancy equipment or costly repairs when it comes to winterizing your pipes. All it requires is some action, and the price of waiting is too steep.
If you blow it out, it only costs you time (about an hour) and effort; but saves you money. A few bucks’ worth of prevention is far less than the cost of a burst pipe, which means it also saves you peace of mind and allows you to rest easy during those chilly nights, knowing you won’t wake up to a puddle on your floor. Consider it insurance: The most affordable policy you’ll ever purchase.
Winterize now. Before the frost arrives… And your wallet will appreciate it.
